Each year the Couture jewelry show welcomes a mix of new brands into the fold, helping to link them up with the creatives, buyers and executives who walk the Las Vegas show.
The 2022 edition is no exception, once again shining a light on some newer talents as well as brands just new to the trade show. Here WWD aims a spotlight on six brands in the freshman class of 2022 Design Atelier, the show’s incubator for fresh jewelry talent.
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Designers: Anna Amsalem and Rachel Kahlun (twin sisters), launched the brand one and half years ago.
The brand’s aesthetic and the prime materials: We design all of our pieces using our special alloy of 18K yellow gold, which is much softer than the traditional gold you are used to seeing. Our diamonds and colored stones are precision-cut for us in Tel Aviv and New York, which we usually then bezel set because we love creating gold, heavy pieces. We also love pairing unexpected color combinations to offer that pop of color in a subtle and elevated way.
Signature pieces: Our Sweethearts are definitely our signature piece. We wanted to design a heart that was a reflection of us and our brand, so we came up with our Sweetheart which combines two pear cut stones to create one heart. We offer fun color combinations as well as personalized hearts using birthstones of loved ones.
What inspires your work? As third-generation jewelers, we were always surrounded by our family’s extravagant one-of-a-kind pieces, which have naturally become our greatest source of inspiration. We love creating high-end yet wearable jewelry. Our pieces are very versatile, you can wear them to a black tie wedding or casually in your everyday life. We were taught that jewelry not only needs to look good, but feel good as well, so we design the back of a piece as much as the front, and never hollow anything out.
Not only are we third-generation jewelers, but we are the third generation of women designers in our family. Our grandmother designed and manufactured jewelry at a time when that was very uncommon. Now our mother and aunt run their family business, so we are lucky to have such amazing role models to inspire our designs and everything about our business.
What are you looking forward to re: attending couture? We are looking forward to meeting and connecting with new people in the industry.
Designer: Carolina Neves
The brand’s aesthetic and the prime materials: Inspired by the colorful gemstones, known for “flying stones,” which are gemstones applied around the centerpiece of the jewelry looking like it is flying around the jewel. We also believe in the mix and match and the power to mix more than one necklace with different sizes, different rings, bracelets and earrings at the same time. Our prime materials are 18k gold in yellow, white and rose colors with gemstones like emeralds, rubies, pink tourmalines, amethysts, London topaz and diamonds.
Signature pieces: One of our bestsellers is the Crown Ring in 18k gold with different colorful gemstones; we have the Concave Diamond Earrings in 18k gold that we made to fit perfectly in the ears, and we also have the Charms collection, with meaningful pendants, that become amulets for protection, love, faith and more, all with the brand DNA.
What inspires your work? The inspiration is creating jewelry that is versatile, inspired by the modern on-the-go women, that they can wear from day to night. I always like to look around her for inspiration, from architecture, culture, different lifestyles and fashion.
What are you looking forward to re: attending couture? We have high expectations. The brand is in a very interesting moment in its path, expanding in Brazil, and searching for a rise of international partnerships. We believe that the show will be a great opportunity to be closer to our current international partners, and to show our new collections to a new market.
Designers: Nina Dzhokhadze and Natia Chkhartishvili, launched in 2018.
The brand’s aesthetic and the prime materials: Our style is chunky, bright and bold jewelry with lots of color. We predominantly use 18k yellow gold and semiprecious stones, combining with colorful enamel which became the signature style of our pieces.
Signature pieces: Our eye ring became the signature style and everyone’s favorite statement cocktail ring. It comes in 18k yellow gold or black and white enamel with a topaz central stone and tsavolites and opals. Our recent ‘Life in Color’ necklaces became bestsellers around the world and customers loved creating and customizing their own color combination and creating their own unique necklaces on our “build your own necklace’’ directly on our website.
What inspires your work? We are inspired by life, simple moments with friends, family and traveling. The main inspiration behind the brand came from a shared passion for new adventures. We love color, and mixing and combining different combinations in our pieces are our joy and passion and we are looking forward to show new collection.
What are you looking forward to re: attending couture?: We are so looking forward to seeing all our existing business partners, meet with new potential buyers, see talented jewelry designers and enjoy one of the best work atmospheres, where you enjoy work and realize how much satisfaction it brings to be part of the jewelry community and amazing industry.
Designer: Alyona Kiperman, launched in June 2020.
The brand’s aesthetic and the prime materials: Nomis pieces are unisex, multipurpose, innovative, and customizable. Nomis is the design in its purest form that brings out a personality. We use 18k gold, diamonds, emeralds, sapphires, rubies and other color gems in our bold designs.
Signature pieces: The pieces that everybody knows are our emerald ear cuff/ring and a pin that you can wear as an earring or a pendant.
What inspires your work? My curiosity to redefine what modern jewelry is and how it fits into our life.
What are you looking forward to re: attending couture?: For us Couture is a place where we can be better seen, and also the place where the best of the best in the industry come together bringing knowledge and fresh ideas to the table.
Susana Martins Jewelery
Designer: Susana Martins, launched in 2017, after working as a private jeweler for 17 years.
The brand’s aesthetic and the prime materials: My aesthetic is evident, explorative, and grows from the classics to a global trend-driven visual language. I craft my jewels in 18k gold.
Signature pieces: The Unstoppables stackable rings, initially conceptualized as thumb-rings. The idea behind “The Unstoppables” was born after witnessing a great friend expressing herself with gestures, with her hands stacked with some great rings. I wanted to play with this expressive power and offer multiple points of view, the collection is influenced by our hands and every movement we make.
What inspires your work? I draw inspiration from various historical periods, with a particular focus on the Art Deco era due to its widespread influence across the arts and the techniques pioneered in jewelry making at the time. I am obsessed with enameling, a technique I mastered in 2012.
What are you looking forward to re: attending couture?: A designer’s dream comes true. Taking part is a unique chance to gain recognition in the industry. I’m looking forward to talking directly with buyers from boutiques and shops worldwide about my work and meeting other rising designers who are on their way to becoming the following big names.
Designer: Hessa Alshafar, launched in 2017 in Dubai.
The brand’s aesthetic and the prime materials: My aesthetic is edgy, with a mix of a bold and a minimalist feel. The brand identity is strongly implemented in its color palette, selection of gems and materials used and how all of these are applied in my pieces. Emeralds (our favorite gem) and its fabulous color, glossy enamels, custom-made cuts are always part of Savolinna’s design thinking. The green color, the black rhodium, the custom-made links, the enamel inlays created a brand definition I absolutely love. “This is so Savo” is often used by my clients to describe my new pieces. We use precious gems, natural diamonds set in gold.
Signature pieces: Anything with emeralds is usually identified as a “Savolinna” piece.
What inspires your work?: My design process is not a straightforward path, and I usually do not create mood boards. I take notes of the ideas that occur in my mind and discuss them with the production team. I always try to motivate the team to think outside the box, pushing boundaries by using a new material combination or by applying an unexpected technique. These ideas are inspired, mainly by what I see myself wearing. I love “day to night” situations and try to project versatility in each piece I create. My friends and family are my most significant source of ideas. Luckily, I am surrounded by stylish, positive, and empowered women and my love for them inspires me every day.
What are you looking forward to re: attending couture?: Global exposure.